FIRST TIMER’S GUIDE TO NAPLES
Naples is a city that possesses a particular kind of chaos and grit, yet also showcases a certain beauty and grandeur that’s uniquely napoletana. I discovered quite a few memorable views to photograph, from hilltop fortresses overlooking the sea, to tranquil gardens inside fresco-adorned cloisters. And in between all those photo walks, I had the chance to taste some of the most flavorful and indulgent food in all of Italy. From the iconic pizza napoletana to countless types of pastries. Here are my recommendations for how to enjoy and eat your way through Napoli…
Best Views & Photo Spots in Naples
Take in the views from above at Castel Sant'Elmo
I made the journey up to this medieval fortress in the early morning to beat the July heat. And it was so breathtaking! Different scenic landscapes greeted me at every level, until I reached the very top. I found unobstructed views of the city, the water and Mount Vesuvius. Afterwards I found myself in awe of how quiet a big city like Naples can become. The chaos fades simply by watching it all from above.
Wander around Piazza del Plebiscito
This massive square near the water is central to several attractions. Just within the square itself is the Basilica di San Francesco di Paola, one of the largest churches in the city. And on the opposite side is the Palazzo Reale. While this area often hosts cultural events and even art exhibitions, it's also a wonderful place to people watch. I've seen young ragazzi playing calcio (soccer) right in the piazza, as well as elderly couples going for a passeggiata (stroll).
Stroll by the seaside near Castel dell'Ovo
Just a short walk along the waterfront from Piazza del Plebiscito is this seaside castle. It sits on the gulf, displaying clear views of the volcano in the distance. As I was walking up to the entrance, I found adventurous teens jumping off rocks into the water. There were also families with small kids swimming in the shallows, with their beach gear lying out nearby.
Admire the mosaic tile work of Chiostro di Santa Chiara
You can appreciate so much art in this religious complex, comprised of the church, cloister and museum. One of the most eye-catching sites would definitely be the hand-painted mosaic tiles! Crafted in the majolica style, this type of pottery found its way to Italy and eventually Naples through trade with Spain around Renaissance times.
Enjoy a peaceful escape in Chiostro di San Gregorio Armeno
Right by the famous Christmas Alley in Naples, there is a quiet sanctuary to be discovered. Within the cloister of the religious complex, I found thriving plants, Baroque fountains and faded frescoes. There were even plenty of chairs and benches scattered throughout the place to rest awhile. It was a pleasant surprise to find such tranquility there, because just outside there were bustling crowds in shops selling the traditional presepi. The presepe is an Italian nativity scene, with hand-crafted figurines made by local artisans.
Marvel at the details of the grand Palazzo Reale
Out of countless sites to see in Naples, this place undoubtedly embodies Italian opulence. Every inch of the place is colored a dreamy mix of white, gray, soft pink and faded blue. The walls and floors are either covered in marble or adorned with sculptural reliefs. And the rest of the former royal residence is quite the luxurious attraction to explore!
Food Tour of Naples
Pizza
You simply cannot come to Napoli without trying the true pizza napoletana! Yes, you can find countless restaurants throughout Italy that serve this style of pizza. And they do maintain the integrity of its preparation. But trying the real thing is an essential bucket list item that must be done in its birthplace. While you could go to the famous Pizzeria Da Michele or Gino Sorbillo, I'm highlighting other spots that absolutely deserve a visit!
Antonio & Antonio - Try the classic Margherita with mozzarella, tomato sauce, basil, & a drizzle of olive oil.
Pizzeria Da Attilio - Try their specialty pizza with the star-shaped ricotta-filled crust and topped with mozzarella, tomato sauce, basil & sausage.
Pizza Madre Salvatore di Matteo - Try the Capricciosa, topped with mozzarella, prosciutto cotto (ham), artichokes, black olives & basil.
Pastries & Gelato
If you are a fellow dessert lover, I'll say that Naples has all the sweet food in abundance to satisfy your cravings! There is something for everyone. From creamy, to chocolatey to fruity flavors. Also the textures range from soft and light to flaky and buttery. In addition, some pastry chefs even invented their own creations to sell alongside the classic sweets! Here’s what to try:
Pasticceria Capparelli (images 1&2) - Babà al Rum - A sponge cake soaked in a sticky, citrus, rum-spiked syrup. Sfogliatella - A shell-shaped pastry comprised of crisp thin layers with a citrus ricotta filling.
Armando Scaturchio (3) - Tupella - Similar to Sfogliatella, but the first inner layer is pure dark chocolate. The filling is half ricotta cream with chocolate chips & half Babà.
Pasticceria Poppella (4) - Fiocco di Neve (snowflake) - A pillowy soft brioche pastry filled with light ricotta cream & topped with powdered sugar.
La Sfogliatella Mary (5&6) - Zeppola - A fried, cream-filled pastry dough topped with powdered sugar & cherries.
Cuori di Sfogliatella (7) - Sfogliatella, this shop sells over 30 kinds of sweet & savory flavors!
Mennella Il Gelato (8) - The mulberry (gelsi) & apricot (albicocca) flavors.